Sulawesi – Halmahera Bird Photo tour June 2023

SUMMARY

If you examine the map of Indonesia, you’ll notice two islands that share similar shapes but differ in size: Sulawesi and Halmahera. Sulawesi is the fourth-largest island of Indonesia, following Papua, whereas Halmahera holds the eleventh position. Sulawesi has long been renowned as a top destination for birders, particularly in its central and northern regions. On the other hand, Halmahera has gained popularity due to being the natural habitat of Wallace’s Standardwing Bird of Paradise, a charismatic species. Both islands have enjoyed this reputation for over a century.

With improved accessibility in recent decades, there has been a significant increase in the discovery of endemic species on these islands. This trend has spurred a growing interest among birders to explore Sulawesi and Halmahera.

During a recent trip, I had the opportunity to accompany two dedicated Bird and Wildlife Photographers: Naun Amable Silva from Peru and Lindsey Lohan from the US. The planned itinerary spanned 11 days, from June 12 to June 22, 2023.

TRIP DETAIL

Naun and Linsey had just finished their tour in West Papua on June 10, 2023. They flew from Sorong to Makassar, arriving in Jakarta that evening. The following day, we were scheduled to fly together from Jakarta to Manado. However, due to changing flight schedules, there was significant drama, resulting in a late-night scramble at the airport. Ultimately, we departed from Jakarta to Manado at 10 AM.

Upon arriving in Manado, we stopped for food near the airport before heading straight to Tomohon and then to Mount Mahawu to pursue our first targets, two endemic owls of Sulawesi; Sulawesi Scops-owl and Speckled Boobook. The rain had just stopped, and it was getting dark. The Boobook responded many times but did not approach, while the Sulawesi Scops-owl successfully photographed with a nice eye-leveled position.

In the next early morning, we attempted to spot the Minahasa Masked Owl, but it didn’t respond to the playback. The morning session in Mahawu was fruitful, with most of the targets packed up successfully; Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker, Citrine Canary Flycatcher, Sulawesi Cuckoo-Dove, Sulawesi Babbler, Grey-sided Flowerpecker, Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker, Isabelline Bush-hen, White-faced Cuckoodove, and Turquoise Flycatcher. Our Mahawu session ended at a Pitta hide, where we photographed a Pitta and a Scaly-breasted Kingfisher just before the rain began. Heavy rain persisted throughout the day in Tomohon, allowing us to spend more time in a cafe. Despite the weather, we encountered several species during rainy periods, including the Sulawesi Myzomela, Crimson Sunbird, Mountain Tailorbird, Black Sunbird, Barred Rail, and Buff-banded Rail. Before dark, we drove to Batu Putih.

On the first day in Tangkoko, birding began at 5:30 AM. Their primary targets were the Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher, Green-backed Kingfisher, Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher, Ashy Woodpecker, and Knobbed Hornbill, all of which they successfully photographed. Highlights of the Tangkoko forest included sightings of the Tarsier and Sulawesi Bear Cuscus. Other notable species encountered were the Blue-backed Parrot and Blue-cheeked Parrot.

The second day in Tangkoko involved birding along the road between Batuputih and Temboan Hill, where we achieved significant targets: the Pygmy Hanging Parrot, Pale-blue Monarch, White-necked Myna, and Sulawesi Hanging-Parrot. That afternoon on Temboan Hill, we captured several target species, including the White-faced Cuckoo-Dove, Sulawesi Hornbill, Purple-winged Roller, and Sulawesi Cicadabird.

On the third day, we embarked on a boat trip along the Sampirang River, aiming to spot the Great-billed Kingfisher. After nearly two hours, we reached our target and also observed various other species, including the Grey-cheeked Green-Pigeon, Pied Imperial-Pigeon, Channel-billed Cuckoo, Glossy Swiftlet, Kentish Plover, Black-naped Tern, Great Crested Tern, Pacific Reef-Heron, Striated Heron, Brahminy Kite, White-bellied Sea-Eagle, Sacred Kingfisher, Collared Kingfisher, White-rumped Cuckooshrike, Slender-billed Crow, and Pacific Swallow.

In the afternoon, we returned to Manado, with their final birding spot at Temboan Hill. Despite earlier rain, the weather cleared, allowing them to spot key targets: the Grey-cheeked Green-Pigeon, Glossy Swiftlet, Knobbed Hornbill, Sulawesi Hanging-Parrot, Pygmy Hanging-Parrot, Sulawesi Myna, Grey-sided Flowerpecker, Sahul Sunbird, and White-faced Cuckoo-Dove.

The next morning, we flew to Ternate, North Maluku, where we enjoyed clear weather upon arrival. After a speedboat ride to Sidangoli, we rested at the guest house during the hot midday. In the afternoon, we birded along a logging track near the city, focusing on photographing the Moluccan Flycatcher, Black Sunbird, and Violet-necked Lory. The day ended with the Moluccan Scops Owl.

On the second day in Halmahera, we visited the Ivory-breasted Pitta site, a short distance from the Sidangoli-Akejawi causeway. We quickly found our target and then returned to Sidangoli to pack, then proceeded to East Halmahera, to the small town of Subaim, where we were welcomed by rain. Despite the weather, we continued birding in nearby rice fields and Uni-uni, aiming to spot the Moluccan Boobook. Unfortunately, heavy rain prevented them from achieving this target.

The next morning, we left early for Uni-uni, hoping for better weather. Despite the overcast conditions and occasional drizzle, we managed to spot several important species, including the Grey-cheeked Green-Pigeon, Glossy Swiftlet, Knobbed Hornbill, Sulawesi Hanging-Parrot, Pygmy Hanging-Parrot, Sulawesi Myna, Grey-sided Flowerpecker, Sahul Sunbird, and White-faced Cuckoo-Dove.

After lunch, we departed from Subaim for Akejawi, where we stayed at Mahroji’s house, a ranger of the Aketajawe-Lolobata National Park. His house is situated on the riverbank bordering the national park. We stopped several times as we got good opportunities to photograph some of the targets. Along the way, some of the key species appeared; Mollucan Hanging Parrot, Black Sunbird, Scarlet-breasted Fruit-Dove, Spectacled Imperial-Pigeon, and Moustached Treeswift.

On June 20, we began our trek at 3 AM, hiking 5 km into the Aketajawe-Lolobata National Park. Our goal for the day was to spot the iconic Wallace’s Standardwing Bird of Paradise. At this location, we observed and photographed from a hide constructed by the BBC team several months earlier.

After visiting the Standardwing site, we proceeded to the North Moluccan Pitta area, where we successfully found three individuals in a newly discovered location. After lunch at Mahroji’s house, we continued our journey back to Sidangoli. From there, we took a speedboat to Ternate and spent the night.

The following day, we flew from Ternate to Makassar despite unfavorable weather conditions. Fortunately, the weather in Makassar was excellent. We headed straight to Karaenta, where the sun was high, giving us little hope of finding our target. From Karaenta, we traveled to Ramang-Ramang, birdwatching in open rice fields throughout the afternoon. Exhausted, we returned early to the hotel.

On our final day in Makassar, while waiting for our departure, we enjoyed easy birding around the fishpond area near the city, just a 20-minute drive from the hotel. We photographed several waterbirds in this area. At 9:00 a.m,  we returned to the hotel and checked out for the airport.